Using Infrared Imaging to Detect Water Damage

Most of us find it impossible to detect water damage over ceilings, behind walls and under floors of our property until the problem becomes acute. Since mold formation can begin in as little as 24 hours after the first leak, the cost of damage control and repairs greatly escalates by this time. The need of the hour is technology that can help us investigate and remove infestation while it is still in a nascent stage.

Moisture Assessment Technology
Infrared thermal imaging is one such technique to detect water damage and mold spores in building structures. Using a thermal image camera, this technology identifies the thermal condition, which is, heat or lack thereof, of an object. Using infrared light, it creates an image of this thermal condition, making it visible to the human eye. While most thermal image cameras produce live television pictures of this infrared radiation, sophisticated versions can measure the surface temperature and produce color image s to help the user understand thermal patterns.

How It Works
Thermal or infrared energy is part of the electromagnetic spectrum that humans perceive as heat. Although everything with a temperature above absolute zero emits heat, infrared light is not visible to humans due to its extensive wavelength.
Thermal image cameras produce images of this heat radiation without making contact with the surface of the object. Since water is cooler than construction materials, infrared imaging would show a lack of heat in case of moisture damage-related mold in a building. The best part is that these diagnostic cameras are extremely cost-effective.

Utility
Thermal image cameras that comprise temperature measurement help professionals to make effective moisture assessments and judge the condition of the building. These measurements may be compared with those in the structure's history or with other structures in the vicinity to determine if a temperature change will harm its integrity.

The findings of the moisture assessment can be verified with electronic, data-logging moisture detection equipment and sampling techniques. This helps them ensure that the camera results are defensible.

Besides inspectors, owners and insurance companies fin d this data useful to make decisions with respect to the maintenance of the property. They are advised to use infrared thermal imaging in the following cases:
To determine water damage after events like floods, roof or pipe leaks, etc.
Before purchasing property with potential internal water damage
Before the date of warranty expiration on new constructions
To determine areas of infiltration and exfiltration when performing an energy audit of the structure
To determine sufficiency of insulation

Thus, a thermal image camera provides invaluable information to inspectors, property owners and insurers alike about potential moisture damage and mold spores in a structure.

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What is White Balance?

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What is White Balance? Posted: 27 Feb 2012 04:13 PM PST White balance (WB) is really important for accurate re-production of colors in a photo. If WB settings  are not properly tuned in your digital camera, you may find your final shot to be colored slightly in hues of  blue, orange or yellow. Not a good thing. "Cyprus wedding" captured by Vavinov Alex (Click Image to See More From Vavinov Alex) In this article, we’ll look at 3 important aspects of white balance you need to understand in order to make  better use of it in your photography.

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Prime Lens Vs Zoom Lens – Which Is Best?

So, youre wanting to get a new lens, but youre not quite sure whether to buy a prime lens or a zoom lens. Both types of lenses have their advantages and disadvantages, and you want to make sure you make the right decision and get the lens which best fits your photographic needs.

In case you didn't already know, the main difference between a zoom lens and prime lens is that a zoom lens enables you to adjust your focal length within a certain range (for example 18-50mm), whereas a prime lens has a fixed focal length.

So you might be wondering what the point is of using a prime lens. Surely if you have the choice between a lens with flexibility and one with no flexibility, then surely the flexible one is the best one, isnt it? Well, its not really as straightforward as that, because prime lenses do have some advantages. To begin with, they are lighter than zoom lenses because they have less moving parts. Mechanically speaking, they are simpler.

In addition to this, prime lenses usually have wider apertures. The aperture of a lens determines how much light the lens lets in at any one time. Aperture ratings are in ratios, for example 1:3.5 or 1:2.8, but usually when buying a lens you will see it shown without the 1 in front of it, for example 3.5. Lenses with lower aperture numbers are more expensive, as a lower number means a wider aperture. Having a wide aperture produces a shallow depth of field, meaning that only a small distance range is in focus. A narrow depth of field (a wide aperture) would be great for close-ups of flowers where you want the background blurred, whereas a large depth-of-field (a small aperture) would be ideal for landscape photos.

Okay, so how about the zoom lens?

Well, a zoom lens will give you a bigger range of distances to compose your image. This means that you don't need to move closer or further away from your subject to get the picture you're after. I t can also be great for taking shots of wildlife, because you can zoom in without having to change your position, so you will be less likely to scare the animal away. 

The best way to decide which type of lens is right for you is to ask yourself what type of photography you are going to be doing. If you are going to be photographing a scene which remains still, such as a landscape scene, then a prime lens could be a good choice. If on the other hand you want to photograph things that are moving, such as animals, people, or sports photography, then a zoom lens is a must.

So, youre wanting to get a new lens, but youre not quite sure whether to buy a prime lens or a zoom lens. Both types of lenses have their advantages and disadvantages, and you want to make sure you make the right decision and get the lens which best fits your photographic needs.

In case you didn't already know, the main difference between a zoom lens and prime lens is that a zoom lens enables you to adjust your focal length within a certain range (for example 18-50mm), whereas a prime lens has a fixed focal length.

So you might be won dering what the point is of using a prime lens. Surely if you have the choice between a lens with flexibility and one with no flexibility, then surely the flexible one is the best one, isnt it? Well, its not really as straightforward as that, because prime lenses do have some advantages. To begin with, they are lighter than zoom lenses because they have less moving parts. Mechanically speaking, they are simpler.

In addition to this, prime lenses usually have wider apertures. The aperture of a lens determines how much light the lens lets in at any one time. Aperture ratings are in ratios, for example 1:3.5 or 1:2.8, but usually when buying a lens you will see it shown without the 1 in front of it, for example 3.5. Lenses with lower aperture numbers are more expensive, as a lower number means a wider aperture. Having a wide aperture produces a shallow depth of field, meaning that only a small distance range is in focus. A narrow depth of field (a wide aperture) wo uld be great for close-ups of flowers where you want the background blurred, whereas a large depth-of-field (a small aperture) would be ideal for landscape photos.

Okay, so how about the zoom lens?

Well, a zoom lens will give you a bigger range of distances to compose your image. This means that you don't need to move closer or further away from your subject to get the picture you're after. It can also be great for taking shots of wildlife, because you can zoom in without having to change your position, so you will be less likely to scare the animal away.

The best way to decide which type of lens is right for you is to ask yourself what type of photography you are going to be doing. If you are going to be photographing a scene which remains still, such as a landscape scene, then a prime lens could be a good choice. If on the other hand you want to photograph things that are moving, such as animals, people, or sports photography, then a zoom lens is a must.

Its not always easy trying to make this kind of decision, but whatever you decide, a Canon EF 85mm or a Nikon 17-55mm 2.8 Lens are good examples of the type of lenses that will always be useful to have as part of your photography kit.

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Portrait Lighting Tips in Photography

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Portrait Lighting Tips in Photography Posted: 26 Feb 2012 07:42 PM PST Lesson #1: Window Lighting Today, with digital cameras, effective window lighting is a more realistic option for the photo enthusiast. Take your subject to a window, one without direct sunlight pouring in though – it’s too harsh! In the studio, pros  position their ‘main light’ to the their left probably 90 percent of the time. So, find a window to your left with the reflected, or softer, light (as opposed to direct sunlight). "ojt" captured by Jan Michael Vincent V Castillo (Click Image to See More From Jan Michael Vincent      Castillo) As you turn your subject more and more away from you, and therefore toward the window, the shadowing will change on his/her face. You’ll see the lighting you like the most and use it. After all, you are the artist now!  For more refined results, see lesson #2 about reflectors.  Advanced tip: Corner lighting – Find a window near the corner of a room with another window on the far wall.  Although that second window cannot be ‘repositioned’ like a reflector (see below), it still can light the background and/or ‘fill in’ the shadow area of the  portrait that you are creating. Lesson #2: Reflector Lighting You will need: A 5 in 1 photo reflector A light stand An adjustable clamp Or, a reflector can be as simple as aluminum foil (crinkled) attached to a piece of cardboard, use the dull side of the foil if sunlight is directly bouncing off of it. About 24″x 24″ works if you are mainly using it to photograph ‘head shots’ of your kids and others. The ’5 in 1′ is great though, because it has white, silver and gold surfaces  to choose from.  You can get softer, more diffused light off the white; more intense light off the silver; and warmer light off the gold. Positioning the Photo Reflector: Either a helper can tilt the reflector until pleasing light is thrown into the shadows of the portrait, or you can use a light stand w/clamp. Reflector lighting is more foolproof than strobe lighting, because one cannot overwhelm  the natural, or ambient, light with the reflector light. And, by varying the distance of the reflector from the subject, the  ratio of the highlights to the shadows can be controlled.  You can flatten out the light, which is less flattering if weight  or facial shape is not conducive, or, one can make the shadows darker, and, to a degree, one can vary the position  of the shadowing by raising or lowering the reflector. Unlike strobe, you can actually see the light, so it is particularly easy to learn by experimentation. Photo captured by keenan butcher (click image to see more from keenan butcher) Remember, anywhere your camera goes, your reflector goes! Digital photography allows ‘trial and error’ photography to a degree not possible in the age of film. But, if certain elements are never present, they will never appear in any image, so this is among the key professional photography tips, in my view.  For example, using a white or light gray (neutral) wall as a reflector. I photographed a model in front of the  Monte Carlo casino in bright, (and I do mean bright!) Vegas sunshine, and got this glowing light, that usually only  occurs by using reflectors, coupled with beautiful light in the hair. In this case, the distance from a wall on the  right was perfect for bouncing light onto the model’s face and keeping it in the proper ratio with the sun light. Who says you can’t  photograph into the sun! Also, photographing into the sun worked here because of an arch above her, that blocked sunlight from directly hitting  the lens, which quickly wrecks photographs with something called flare. Employ some of these  professional photography techniques, and you’ll feel like you don’t need to be in Photography 101 any longer! About the Author: Dan Burkholz has been a professional photographer for over a decade, creating images of thousands of subjects, and at over 300 weddings. For Further Training on Using Light in Portraits, PictureCorrect Suggests: Travel and documentary photographer Mitchell Kanashkevich has constructed an excellent eBook entitled Seeing the Light. It is made up of three sections which cover the use of a flash, a reflector and natural light.  The full explanations, rich imagery, and detailed diagrams make this eBook very useful to any photographer  who would like to use light more effectively. PictureCorrect readers can receive more than 15% off by  entering the discount code picturecorrect before purchasing. It is currently available here: Seeing the Light eBook Go to full article: Portrait Lighting Tips in Photography Join the discussion of this article on facebook: PictureCorrect on Facebook Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

Aviation Photography: How the Photos are Captured Posted: 26 Feb 2012 01:21 AM PST Every once in a rare while, a lucky photographer is asked to capture an assignment like this. Ed Darack was asked to shoot a cover photo for the The Smithsonian's Air & Space Magazine. Although a fascinating experience, it can also  be extremely stressful and challenging with a lot of resources at stake due to the huge cost of making everything happen. Missing the shot is essentially not an option, take a look at the interesting process and how he has to fight against the g-forces to lean into the shot (for those of you reading this by email you can see the video here): With so much at stake, Darack decided to first model his desired result in a 3D CAD program to formulate a plan ofwhat we wanted to capture exactly. After receiving a pre-flight physical and ejection seat training in the case of an emergency, Darack strapped himself into an f-16 holding his camera.  When another aviation photographer, Justin De Rueck, takes to the skies, he is usually wielding his Canon 1D Mark IV. De Rueck says he works in Av or Tv and sticks with the same aperture until the light forces a change.  By the looks of the video, being an honorary member of the aerobatic team is equally stunning and nauseating, as  the photographer is forced to work through G-force, rapid twists, sharp turns, and at points flying upside down.  Join De Rueck on a typical workday, here: During this assignment to photograph an L-39 aerobatic team over Cape Town, South Africa, he outfitted his camera with a Canon 24mm f/4 lens, later switching out to a 16-35mm, and strapped himself in for the ride of a lifetime. Inside the Cockpit with an Aviation Photographer on Assignment Go to full article: Aviation Photography: How the Photos are Captured Join the discussion of this article on facebook: PictureCorrect on Facebook Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

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Digital Camera Repair Problem #2 - Broken Lens

Digital camera lens repair is as common as LCD repair, but it's #2 on my list because it's harder to repair and there are so many different types of lens problems whereas a broken LCD is a broken LCD no matter how you look at it.

Here are some basic tips to avoid breaking your lens:

- Do not leave the batteries in your camera in the camera bag. The power button can be pressed accidentally     causing the lens to extend and get jammed because it cannot open properly inside the bag.

- Try not to drop the camera with the lens extended.

- Don't ever pull or twist on a lens that is not working 100% properly, you will just break it.

I would have to write a book to fully explain lens problems fully (hmm.. maybe a good idea!) so I will try  and keep it simple and informative.

The lens is made up of many different parts... Let's start with the several pieces of glass referred to as the  lens elements.

The outer lens element is prone to being scratched and scuffed, and usually has a special coating on it that you DO NOT want to clean off with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), or Windex or something similar. It's not the end of the world, and don't worry about it if it's missing. Just keep the lens clean (why are there fingerprints on your lens anyway?) and scratch free.

The inner-most lens element is responsible for the fine focus and resides directly in front of the CCD. When you press the shutter button half way down to focus, this part moves forwards and backwards till it's in the correct position and your image is in focus. You won't be messing with this part of the lens...  unless you feel like removing the lens from the camera and then tearing down the lens to get at it's 'guts'.   It's kinda fun the first time, but uh... I wish you luck getting it back together properly. The tearing apart stuff is fun, the putting it back together is a drag!

The lens has two small motors with their own gears that connect to the two main parts of the lens. The larger motor drives the lens barrel in and out when zooming. The smaller motor drives the fine focus element mentioned above and controls the focus. If you get ONE GRAIN of sand in these gears, they will jam and the lens will "error out" as we like to say. Open it up and clean it out if you like, but it's not easy. Typically the main motor of the lens has 5-6 different gears that must be set and aligned properly to function. But hey, your lens is already jammed, why not see how it works, right?

Then there is the CCD, "charge-coupled device" which translates the light that enters the lens into a digital signal that the camera can record.

There was a very large CCD recall by Sony over the past few years that covers many manufacturers and not just Sony, as Sony provided the CCDs to many others for their cameras. The defective CCD's cause the ca mera to take solid black photos, or purple/pink "dripping paint" photos, or they have repeating white horizontal or verticle lines on the images. If your camera does this, call the manufacturer and tell them you want a repair under the CCD recall no matter how old your camera is! IF it's on the list, you 

might get your camera repaired for free.

Got spots on your images that get bigger and smaller as you zoom in and out? Most likely there is a spec of dust on your CCD. You will need to remove the lens and then remove the CCD from the back of the lens and clean it off. Don't lose the gasket that goes around the CCD, don't get any other dirt inside the lens and don't leave any fingerprints! Tall order I know, sorry, I'm demanding. =)

Let's see... what else? Your lens is part way out, stuck at an angle becuase the camera was dropped while turned on. Now please read that carefully; the lens must be stuck part way out or all the way out, and one section o f the lens MUST be stuck at an angle. The lens must not move freely at all for this section  to apply, and you may follow this advice AT YOUR OWN RISK. The following repair trick works, but I am not repsonsible for your actions or anything you do to your camera.

Ok, it's stuck at an angle. Hold the camera with the angled part of the lens resting against the edge of a table, and the rest of the camera hanging over the side. Do not place the camera facing down with the "Canon Zoom Lens..." chrome ring section flat on the table. The rounded edge of the lens must be  what makes contact here. Now... here is the tricky part... press the angled part of the lens back 

into alignment by pushing down on the lens on the edge of the table. Put your fingers on the LENS below the angled part to support it and press firmly but still gently (how do I do that? I don't know.. you just do it) and the lens will either POP!! back into place and work perfectly or it won't budge and no h arm will be done, -OR- one of the "guide pins" that run inside a small track in the lens barrel will break off and you have just destroyed the lens.

I told you it was at your own risk!! Camera repair is fun... right?

Ok, how are we feeling about lenses? I think we have covered most of the basic problems, and I hope  this helps you to get your camera repaired more quickly and cheaply!

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Personal Photography

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Personal Photography Posted: 26 Feb 2012 12:31 AM PST There are many types of photography, some types not as glamorous as other types. I could use up a couple paragraphs just listing them all but since there only a couple that interest me I won’t. But let me tell you about the type I enjoy the most, “Personal Photography”, sounds like I just made that up but I didn’t. See I’ve been doing this type since I was fourteen years old, need I mention that I’m fifty one years old now. As a young lad I was always interested in photography, the one way I could show where I’ve been or what I had seen. "..Stunning!" captured by jessica (click image to see more from jessica)

Tags: Photography Tips

My Wide angle lens Opinion

As you can find different types of cameras to fulfil different sorts of shooting situations and for various requirements. Same is the case for the camera lenses. Every single camera has a various usage and its attributes. Along with its usage as well as the attributes, the very good points and also the bad ones are also defined about the camera lenses employed within the camera. By acquiring to know about the several camera lens characteristics among all of the distinctive cameras, the details regarding the usage and application of the camera lens becomes recognized to the person. One should know the characteristics of unique camera lenses so as to have full knowledge about them. The extra you know the extra you'll be able to apply the correct lens during the appropriate scenario.

Tags: Camera Lens

Rembrandt Lighting in Photography

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Rembrandt Lighting in Photography Posted: 22 Feb 2012 10:17 PM PST Rembrandt lighting was named after of the great master, who often used it in his own portraits. The idea is to create a small inverted triangle of light on the subject’s cheek which is opposite the light source. This is very flattering (especially for people with prominent cheekbone structure) and was often used in old Hollywood portraits. It is important to ensure that you get catch lights in both eyes. Photo captured by Manish Kumar (Click Image to See More From Manish Kumar)

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Photography knowledge - Wide-angle lens tips

In today's news photography coverage, reporters are growing increasingly prefer to use a wide angle lens. Surrounded as they vie with each other when interviewed, and sometimes only with wide-angle lens. Not close to your subject in the press were often holding the camera, using 20mm or 24mm camera lens from the top of the head, cut through the enlarged photos can be useful. Photographed using wide-angle lens edge, is a do not disturb the object being photographed a good way, because at least for now, many people still believe that only when the cameras will be eaten in the photo.

Tags: Camera Lens

Determining the Perfect Camera Lens for You

Many beginning photographers have little idea what type of camera lens they should purchase with their new SLR Camera. That is totally understandable since there are so many different ones to choose from. Choosing the camera was hard enough right? Well, there are a few questions and aspects a photographer should think about before picking a particular lens.

The first question you need to ask your self is "What type of Camera do I own?" This is probably an obvious question, but it's critical to make sure that the lenses you are considering to buy is compatible with your camera. Different lens brands use different lens mounts. This means that only a Sony lens can be used with a Sony camera, a Nikon lens with a Nikon camera, a canon lens with a canon camera, etc However, it is important to note that there are third party brands that make lenses as well; just make sure that the third party lens was constructed for your specific brand and model of camera.

Tags: Camera Lens

Which Canon EOS Lens Is Best For A Beginner - 3 Hints For Choosing A Good All Purpose Lens

What do you believe is your beginning consideration as a new digital SLR owner? It should be which lens you want as an all-purpose lens. Believe me, there are plenty of folks who have agonized over this decision.

There are many really superior lenses to consider as walk around lenses. It's kind of like buying a compact point and shoot camera, though. What zoom range are you looking for?

For the purpose of this article, it shall be assumed that you are searching for a zoom lens rather than one with a fixed focal length. Most, though not all, new owners opt for the Canon "kit lens" as their first lens. While choosing a kit lens may make sense to you now, you will likely not be happy with the lens down the road. You either think you will just wait and purchase a better lens later, or you don't even think about a different lens.

That is not my view. You should get the very best glass(lens) that money can buy rather than spending money on an inf erior kit lens. After all, you will want to upgrade fairly soon, anyway, so why not get more bang for your buck right up front.

There are several things to consider about the lens you are planning to buy.

First consideration is focal length. In general, a focal length of about 18-24mm on the short end and 55-75mm on the long end will give you a very useful range. Keep in mind that these numbers are not critical. There are also some excellent quality lenses that have about 105mm at the long end.

Canon, Sigma, and Tamron have recently released some pretty good lenses in the super-zoom category. These have focal lengths of 18mm at the short end and 200-270mm on the long end. They have gotten favorable reviews, however just keep in mind that the image quality will not be as good as those lenses with less zoom capability.

Second consideration is aperture. The best lenses will have a constant aperture of f/2.8 across all focal lengths. Y ou can almost always save money by getting a lens with a variable aperture, such as f/3.5-5.6, but they will not give you the same performance in all situations, especially when lighting is a challenge.

The final thing to scrutinize when buying your first lens is price. For some, this may be the first thing to consider, but with DSLR photography, it really needs to follow the other two factors. Rather than getting the cheapest lens on the market just to have one, it would be far better in the long run to save enough money to start with a good lens. Don't make the same mistake that so many who have gone before you. If good image quality is something you take seriously, you will not be satisfied with a poorly constructed lens. It is very frustrating to try to take great pictures with poor quality lenses.

Now, you can save money by using Canon EOS lenses from third party manufacturers. Some third party lenses are top-notch and less costly than a Canon lens that is identical in capabilities.

A word of warning. Camera forums can be very informative, and they are full of well-meaning photographers, but they can also be very confusing. This is because the folks in those forums are very passionate about their opinions. They can mislead you by bashing certain cameras and products. While this is not always the case, if it happens to you, it could cloud your thinking and mess up your research.

User opinions on the Canon USE camera manufacturer site are much more helpful. Then there are other sites that will guide you as well. These are FredMiranda.com and online stores like Amazon.What do you believe is your beginning consideration as a new digital SLR owner? It should be which lens you want as a all-purpose lens. Believe me, there are plenty of folks who h ave agonized over this decision.

There are many really superior lenses to consider as walk around lenses. It's kind of like buying a compact point and shoot camera, though. What zoom range are you looking for?

For the purpose of this article, it shall be assumed that you are searching for a zoom lens rather than one with a fixed focal length. Most, though not all, new owners opt for the Canon "kit lens" as their first lens. While choosing a kit lens may make sense to you now, you will likely not be happy with the lens down the road. You either think you will just wait and purchase a better lens later, or you don't even think about a different lens.

That is not my view. You should get the very best glass(lens) that money can buy rather than spending money on an inferior kit lens. After all, you will want to upgrade fairly soon, anyway, so why not get more bang for your buck right up front.

There are several things to consider about the lens you are planning to buy.

First consideration is focal length. In general, a focal length of about 18-24mm on the short end and 55-75mm on the long end will give you a very useful range. Keep in mind that these numbers are not critical. There are also some excellent quality lenses that have about 105mm at the long end.

Canon, Sigma, and Tamron have recently released some pretty good lenses in the super-zoom category. These have focal lengths of 18mm at the short end and 200-270mm on the long end. They have gotten favorable reviews, however just keep in mind that the image quality will not be as good as those lenses with less zoom capability.

Second consideration is aperture. The best lenses will have a constant aperture of f/2.8 across all focal lengths. You can almost always save money by getting a lens with a variable aperture, such as f/3.5-5.6, but they will not give you the same performance in all situations, especially when ligh ting is a challenge.

The final thing to scrutinize when buying your first lens is price. For some, this may be the first thing to consider, but with DSLR photography, it really needs to follow the other two factors. Rather than getting the cheapest lens on the market just to have one, it would be far better in the long run to save enough money to start with a good lens. Don't make the same mistake that so many who have gone before you. If good image quality is something you take seriously, you will not be satisfied with a poorly constructed lens. It is very frustrating to try to take great pictures with poor quality lenses.

Now, you can save money by using Canon EOS lenses from third party manufacturers. Some third party lenses are top-notch and less costly than a Canon lens that is identical in capabilities.

A word of warning. Camera forums can be very informative, and they are full of well-meaning photographers, but they can also be very co nfusing. This is because the folks in those forums are very passionate about their opinions. They can mislead you by bashing certain cameras and products. While this is not always the case, if it happens to you, it could cloud your thinking and mess up your research.

User opinions on the Canon USA camera manufacturer site are much more helpful. Then there are other sites that will guide you as well. These are FredMiranda.com and online stores like Amazon.

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Tags: Camera Lens

Impossible Photography by Erik Johansson: TED Talk

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Impossible Photography by Erik Johansson: TED Talk Posted: 23 Feb 2012 02:39 PM PST A recent TED TALK by digital artist, Erik Johansson has raised a few eyebrows among the photography crowd for more than a couple reasons. While most will agree that his photography skills are far above average, critics argue that the real art behind his work comes in Photoshop. For those of you not familiar with Johansson’s work, he is a well know image manipulator that combines multiple photographs resulting in a single photograph that would be otherwise impossible to take with a camera. Watch the entire TED Talk here (for those of you reading this by email you can see the video here): As you can see from his images, Johansson has set the standards pretty high in terms in impossible photography. During the introduction of his talk Johansson explains his style saying, “I wanted to create something that starts when you press the button.  So, its more about capturing an idea rather than capturing a moment.The basics are quite simple, i just see it a parcel of reality where you can put it together to create an alternate reality.” Johansson goes on to give viewers some tips on creating their own impossible photographs. He explains that realistic images require a lot of planning. Johansson suggests starting with a sketch of your idea then combining the images into one. His golden rules when creating an impossible photograph are broken down in three simple  guidelines: All of the images must be taken from the same perspective. All of the images must be taken using the same lighting. When combining the images, the results must be seamless. This means making it impossible to distinguish where the images begin and end. Johansson was introduced to photography at age 15, when he was given his first digital camera. He has gone on to become a leader in digital art and photoshop manipulation. His art has been featured around the world and has inspired photographers everywhere to get know photoshop a little better. For Further Training on Trick Photography: This best-selling eBook has in-depth instructional tutorials on how to do similar photography tricks and photoshop effects. It can be found here: Trick Photography and Special Effects Go to full article: Impossible Photography by Erik Johansson: TED Talk Join the discussion of this article on facebook: PictureCorrect on Facebook Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

Night Photography Tips: Infographic Posted: 23 Feb 2012 11:02 AM PST Night photography offers photographers the chance to create mysterious, beautiful, and exciting images through the use of creative exposure. The following visual aid will give you an introduction to the basics of night photography and how to properly expose images in low light (for those of you reading this by email you can see the full infographic here): Night Photography Tips Infographic provided courtesy of phototechniques.info. When taking photos at night it is important to make sure your exposure is correctly set and your camera is stable (preferably with a tripod). The most difficult part of night photography I had was properly framing a shot. Because of the lack of light and that I could not really see what was in the viewfinder (for very dark shoots) there was a lot of guesswork. For Further Training on Night Photography Concepts: Trick Photography and Special Effects 2.0 Photographing the 4th Dimension: TIME The more practice you have the better you'll get at this "guessing". Flashlights and other light equipment will help as well. Go to full article: Night Photography Tips: Infographic Join the discussion of this article on facebook: PictureCorrect on Facebook Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

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